During Milano Fashion week, shows and presentations go hand in hand. They are often organised in very special places. Thus, as a fashion journalist, I know the city inside out, from Palazzo to Five Star Hotel, so to speak. I do love the fact that I sometimes get to catch a perfect moment. Entering a courtyard of a Palazzo that normally never opens up... it's sometimes beyond words. Here's a list of labels that caught my attention this season, labels you may know, making shoes and bags (or both) and standing out from the crowd.
Fratelli Rosetti
Inspired by Doctor Zhivago
Palazzo Visconti is where Fratelli Rosetti invited to. A very special place in the centre of Milano, near San Babila. I love going up the steps of this very luxurious house. The Rosetti brothers just take one theme from the collection and make it work. It's always magnificent, even if that sounds PR-talk. It really is a magic moment. This season was all about velvet and decoration, sporting colours such as winter white and bottle green.
AGL
Sister love
The Giusti sisters are a great story to write about. The three of them hailing from a family of cobblers. And of course having inherited the taste of their parents. Today, AGL stands for comfort and avant-garde, which is quite difficult to marry. But in this case it works. Have a look at what's in store for next winter
Santoni
Hello Mrs. Caroline Vreeland
The French stylist Olivier Zahm has teamed up with Santoni to make a series of pictures of Caroline Vreeland (family of Diana of course). Not just pictures but a story, having Vreeland pose as Marlene Dietrich. A great idea if you ask me, Caroline being a real life wet dream of many. The collection itself? Santoni stands out, with a touch of the exotic, as always.
Hogan
Young and dynamic
The Della Valle family is a major presence during Milano Fashion Week. Hogan, Tod's, Fay: it's all in their game. I interviewed both brothers Diego and Andrea Della Valle and must say they know what they are doing... the Hogan presentation seemed like a very casual get together, but behind the scenes there's a lot going on. I have added some details below.
Paula Cademartori
A Brazilian in Paris
Paula Cademartori launched her eponymous line in 2010, creating a capsule of six styles which she developed in several colour combinations. She eventually moved to Italy, to be near the craftmanship and the real work. Today, she sells her shoes and bags to high-end retailers (also in Belgium) and this time, her presentation was in a presidential suite... capturing a very special vibe. I loved it...
Tosca Blue
Multi-disciplinary
I have visited the showroom of Tosca Blue on several occasions and I must say: there's always something for everyone. Backpacks, evening clutches, big handbags, work bags... it's a modern thought to handle your audience in such a way: anyone can be a customer. But sometimes it's too much of everything. Maybe a focus would be nicer.
Jimmy Choo
Ready for the world
Now this label has come to Belgium, in all its glamour and glitter. And that formula worked as it did in the rest of the world. Watching a Jimmy Choo collection unfold, you won't be surprised at the level of craftmanship. There's something to be said about high heels and whatever red carpet fixtures crave for... but that's not all bad.
Calvin Klein
The ultimate minimalist
On Sundays, we all go to Marni and then to Calvin Klein. It's like religion... one show, followed by one presentation. I like what I see at Calvin Klein, given the fact that Francesco Costa designs the collection exactly the way he wants it to be. Honest, direct, linear, quite architecural really. Like it!
Gianvito Rossi
Military Fragments
As a shoe lover, I must admit, there are some Rossi's in my wardrobe. I like how they fit me. I can dance in these shoes. The new winter is all about military accents, as you can see in the picture above. But there's more to this collection...
Bulgari
Ultimate luxury
Having a presentation at the Bulgari hotel is always something special. The Bulgari collection is vast, putting in perspective collections that have been present for a long time (which really isn't a problem). I like how the Bulgari line clings to certain styles, as if they will never go away. Here's a hooray for class and quality.