My highlights of NYFW

The Mulleavy sisters haven't studied fashion and that pays off: their designs don't come in a format of what can and cannot. They work from the heart, fusing sensitivity and craftmanship. Patchworks of lace and leather, ruflles even on boots, and dramatic jewelry will be instant hits.

'It's all about nautical', said Tommy a day before the show, when I met him at Hudson Studios. His moodboard was a mixture of Brigitte Bardot in striped T's and that fantastic 'kiss' sculpture that still sits in the harbour of San Diego. The show setting couldn't be missed: the deck of a big cruiseliner of a time gone by. I was amazed at the details of this collection, sporting a touch of couture even.

For the first time in years, DVF went back to a presentation at her Meatpacking District HQ. She had a good reason for this: bringing back the audience to a real moment, where one can see the models up close and even touch the fabrics. Downstairs, the set up was daily life and work, upstairs, it was all about dancing at Studio 54, where DVF in the Seventies used to hang out. Great collection, with impressive details, fantastic new prints and a golden wrap dress for that one special evening...

Another presentation and not a show, but that's how APC's Jean Touitou wanted to show his collection to a small New York crowd. I loved the normality of it all: not too fashionable, just plain clean clothes that still make a difference if you combine them the right way. Never showstopping, but hey, that's fine.

I loved everything about this show. The models wearing flat shoes (so did Victoria when she came out at the end), the choice of fabrics (lots of tweeds and beautiful plaids), great coats for winter and the return of (her) corset tops: a way of playing with winter versus summer, something all designers are thinking about right now.

I really like the way creative director Oliveira Baptista works with the heritage of a house like Lacoste. For winter 2016, he came up with a small drawing of a skier, going down a slope, and put that on several knitted pieces, even on a great poncho. I loved his colour combinations, from petrol to mustard (a must have colour next season) and even a screaming fuchsia. This is retro but done in a good way.     

There's always some glamour to be found on the runway of Ralph Lauren. Of course his clientèle lives the high life, enjoying his white blouses, his tweed jackets and velvet manteaux, but there's more to be said about how Ralph sees fashion. I absolutely give in to his take on trousers: doing jeans in a different way, modern and elegant at the same time. And when he adds a dash of Indian culture, I'm completely in.

Okay, there was hot chocolate, but to be honest: it was the coldest night ever, minus 16 degrees, with a harsh wind, that of course showed each and everybody in the audience that a Moncler in the wardrobe is necessary. So the show was outside at Lincoln Plaza and well, it was really a good show, putting the Moncler Grenoble  jackets at the center of attention. 

The new Whitney Museum was exactly the right spot for Proenza Schouler to show: it added an extra to their creative talent, which of course they have. The duo behind the label has proved they know what real fashion is all about: so they combine wearable pieces with specials that still will make it to women's wardrobes. I liked the way the handbags were held, and loved the flow of the trousers. Here was a collection about clean lines being disturbed.

So there she was: Lady Gaga as a model. Not her first time, but this time we almost forgot she was the famous superstar/singer/fashionicon/crooner or whatever she will be called in our history books a century from now. Jacobs' show was all about black, goth, beauty, darkness, craftmanship, excelling in big volumes. Magnificent coats, beautiful bowtie blouses, and what else? It's clear that the fact he stopped Vuitton and his Marc by Marc Jacobs line to focus on his own collection was just what he needed to do. Thank you, Marc!