During Paris fashion week, I was invited to the opening of 'Les Robes Sculptures' de Noureddine Amir. The Moroccan couturier presented his work at the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent. The choice for this work is rather special: until now, Bergé (who runs the Fondation) showed work of designers who were clearly at the service of women. This time, having fallen in love with Amir's work, Bergé shows a collection of 'robes' that resemble contemporary sculptures rather than a workable wardrobe.
.jpg)
Raffia, organza tubes filled with raffia. Copyright Cringuta Pinzaru
Noureddine Amir was born in Rabat in 1967, but he lives and works in Marrakesh. He studied at Esmod and worked together with the Iranian artist Shirin Neshat, for whom he created a lot of costumes. Starting in 2001, he has shown his work at fashion shows in Morocco and in museum exhibions (at Momu in Antwerp, but also in Lille and Paris).
Dyed raffia wrapped with chiffon. Copyright Cringuta Pinzaru
Amir is a fan of material and creates starting from what he has in his hands: raffia, chiffon, jute canvas, beads... he even creates his own materials, and only afterwards thinks of what he aims at. A form, a volume, a detail. Always sophisticated, always in favour of beauty. Amir says about his work: 'I accumulate mountains of materials. Then I feel them, I mix them, I experiment... I begin in the middle, the belly around which I create the dress. And I never know at what point I'll stop. The form creates itself. It is born out of material.'
Handmade silk chiffon tubes filled with sabra silk. Copyright Cringuta Pinzaru
I loved entering the world of Noureddine Amir. It felt like entering an ali baba full of treasures. It's clear this man adores women and likes to put them on a piedestal. He loves the longitude of a body and how the body can be enveloped or even exposed (and thus makes me think of Alaia). I wonder how women wear his clothes, if at all they should be worn.
Organza tubes filled with wool yarn. Copyright Cringuta Pinzaru
Les Robes Sculptures de Noureddine Amir, at the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, until April 3rd. Free entrance.
http://www.fondation-pb-ysl.net/fr/Accueil-Fondation-Pierre-Berge-Yves-Saint-Laurent-575.html
